一個(gè)城市有一個(gè)城市的底蘊(yùn)。
杭州的底蘊(yùn):一半在湖山,一半在菜品。
眾所周知,“浙菜”是中國(guó)八大菜系之一,
而“杭州菜”是“浙菜”當(dāng)仁不讓的主力。
杭州飲食文化源遠(yuǎn)流長(zhǎng)。聞名世界的
良渚文化和河姆渡文化遺址中出土的 40
余種動(dòng)物殘骸以及灶、釜、盆、盤可以證明:
早在遠(yuǎn)古時(shí)代,這一帶的先民就開始了烈
火炊煙的烹飪生活。
伴隨著幾千年斗轉(zhuǎn)星移,人們對(duì)食物
的追求逐漸從“果腹”演變到“品嘗”。南
北朝后,江南長(zhǎng)期無(wú)戰(zhàn)事,加上京杭大運(yùn)河
的開通,五代吳越國(guó)的建都以及被稱為“中
華民族第二次遷移”的“宋室南渡”,每一
次歷史變遷都推動(dòng)了杭州飲食的創(chuàng)新與發(fā)
展。尤其是南宋遷都杭州后,大批達(dá)官貴
人和平民百姓南移,將京都烹飪文化帶到了
杭州,從此南北廚藝無(wú)間交流,名菜名饌
及各式小吃目不暇接。
吳自牧的《夢(mèng)粱錄》、周密的《武林舊
事》以及《西湖老人繁勝錄》等都記錄了杭
州飲食的繁華和“齊味萬(wàn)方”的市食佳肴。
據(jù)《夢(mèng)粱錄》,當(dāng)時(shí)的各式菜品已達(dá)280 多個(gè),
烹飪技法15 種以上,不僅精巧華貴的酒樓
林立,平民百姓喜歡的小吃攤、雜碎鋪、面
品店也觸目皆是,使得杭州飲食既海納百川,
又自立一派,成為中華烹飪的一顆明珠。
A city has its richness in culture.
Half of Hangzhou’s richness rests with its
natural splendor and the other half with its
delicious cuisine.
Zhejiang Cuisine is one of the eight key
Chinese cuisines and Hangzhounese cuisine is
surely its representative.
Hangzhou has a long culture in regards to its
cuisine, as demonstrated by the forty-odd
types of animal bones, hearths, kettles, basins,
plates, etc., all unearthed twenty kilometers
away in the world-renowned Liangzhu
and Hemudu Cultural Remains. As early
prehistoric times our ancestors here were
cooking on fire.
I n t h e f o l l o w i n g s e v e r a l t h o u s a n d
years,people’s pursuit of food gradually went
beyond just enjoying tasty food to satisfy the
stomach. The innovation and development
of Hangzhounese cuisine has been ascribed
to the following key factors: The long time
of peace after the Northern and Southern
Song Dynasties; the Beijing-Hangzhou Grand
Canal that was opened in the Sui Dynasty,
Hangzhou being made the capital of Wuyue
Kingdom in the Five Dynasties period
(907-960) and the imperial family of the
Southern Song Dynasty moving southward to
Hangzhou, which is historically known as the
second great Chinese migration. Particularly
after Southern Song made Hangzhou capital,
with the massive migration of high-ranking
officials, noble lords and civilians that brought
their own cuisine to Hangzhou, Hangzhou's
cuisine thus became a blend of north and
south. Thereby giving birth to barrages of
new famous dishes and snacks.
Hangzhou’s flourishing cuisine and numerous
variety of dishes were recorded in Fond
Remembrances of Lin’an by Wu Zimu, Old
Stories of Wulin by Zhou Mi and Reminiscences
of life in Lin’an by someone whose pseudonym
was\"old man of West Lake\". According to
the first book on the subject, there were as
many as 280 dishes cooked in 15 different
ways and sold in the fancy restaurants for
the wealthy and in a multitude of food stalls,
snack shops and flour food shops popular
amongst the common people. As a result,
with its peculiarities of different styles being
blended together, Hangzhounese cuisine is a
true national treasure.